November 22, 2009

  • November 22 - Shimabara

    Today's "Go Somewhere" is Shimabara, located on the peninsula about an inch below Saga on the map.  In the center of the peninsula is Mount Unzen, an active volcano.

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    The area that we visited today is famous for being the site of the Shimabara Rebellion and for the local volcano, Mount Unzen.  The Shimabara Rebellion was a battle between the local forces and the forces of Catholic Lords of the area, and was probably more political than religious, although the result was an intensified persecution of Japanese Christians.  Mount Unzen is an active volcano wealth a history of many eruptions, and had a major pyroclastic eruption a few years back that sent enormous clouds of superheated ash rushing down the mountain.  I am quoting from a Wikipedia entry to provide a bit of historical background for this entry. 

    "The Shimabara Rebellion (島原の乱 Shimabara no ran) was an uprising largely involving Japanese peasants, most of them Catholic Christians, in 1637–1638 during the Edo period. It was also one of only a handful of instances of serious unrest during the relatively peaceful period of the Tokugawa shogunate's rule.  In the wake of the Matsukura clan's construction of a new castle at Shimabara, taxes were drastically raised, which provoked anger from local peasants and lordless samurai. In addition, religious persecution against the local Christians exacerbated the discontent, which turned into open revolt in 1637. The Tokugawa Shogunate sent a force of over 125,000 troops to suppress the rebellion, and after a lengthy siege against the rebels at Hara Castle, defeated them. In the wake of the rebellion, the rebel leader Amakusa Shiro was beheaded, and persecution of Christianity strictly enforced. Japan's national seclusion policy was tightened, and formal persecution of Christianity continued until the 1850s.

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    This manhole cover is actually from Isehaya where we changed trains to board the Shimabara Tetsudo Railway.  Shimabara did not have any nice manhole covers, so I am using this one.  Isehaya has an old stone arch bridge which must be nice to see, but only changed trains there.  We did stop for dinner on the way back since we had time between train connections, but it was too dark to see anything and the town was pretty well closed down for the night. 

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    We have arrived in Shimabara after an hour on this single car train, and here is the beeeg sign should anyone doubt me.

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    After the train pulls out we'll cross the tracks and go out of the station to Shimabara Castle.

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    Our destination is straight down the street.

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    Turn around as we depart Shimabara Station.

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    Let's head up the street to the castle.  One of the guard houses is already visible from the station.

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    The castle moat is filled with dead lotus leaves.  Let's continue along to the left.

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    Shimabara Castle itself comes into view.

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    This is the castle entry, but let's fortify ourselves before going in!

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    This restaurant specializes in "Guzoni" soup, with rice cake on top and delicious veggies underneath.  If I lived in this area I would be a regular customer!

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    Into the castle grounds...

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    The castle is a museum and pictures are not allowed inside, but here is a view from the top  of Mt. Unzen, an active volcano that had a pyroclastic eruption a few years back.  The weather is not good today, so we don't really have a clear view.

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    A guard house seen from the top flor of the castle.

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    This is the view from the opposite side of the castle from Mt. Unzen.  You can see the street back to the train station on the left, and the see the sea in the background.

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    Here is a model of the area.  The area of the pyroclastic flow can be seen, and 43 people died in the eruption, including scientists, reporters and fire fighters.  The castle is at the foot of the mountain in the foreground.  This mountain also blew up in the past a la Mt. St. Helens and threw enough debris into the ocean to create a tidal wave on the opposite shore.  Below is a You Tube video of the pyroclastic flow.

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    Here are some objects that were caught in the hot gas and ash that flowed down the mountain.  Those were guard rails on the left.

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    A local treat served outside the castle at the souvenir shop.  I forget what they are called and have to see if Hubby remembers.

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    Hubby did not like the fact that there was a parking lot right in front of the castle.

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    A nice cup, but it was $40 and I don't plan to start a cup museum.

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    Here is a nice Shimabara-yaki cup, a brown version of which I bought later.  The label says it is for drinking shochu (which I don't like) so I will use it for caffeinated beverages instead.

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    This is another part of the city that features old samurai houses.  The stream through the middle of the street provided water for the residents.  The sign instructs visitors to the area not to talk loudly or gawk into the windows of the local residents.

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    Some water from a local hot springs that is beneficial to one's health

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